Thursday, February 23, 2012

Tomb of Cyrus the Great in Pasargadae


The Tomb of Cyrus the Great in Pasargadae is his burial place following his death in the summer of 530. Located in ancient Persia and in present day’s Fars province, it lies 43 kilometers from Persepolis and is one of Iran 's UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It is said to be the oldest base-isolated structure in the world. Despite having ruled over much of the ancient world, Cyrus the Great would design a tomb that depicts extreme simplicity and modesty when compared to those of other ancient kings and rulers.


The Tomb is simple in form, constructed of large, carefully dressed ashlar blocks set with precision and secured by dovetail clamps. It has six broad steps leading to the sepulcher. Whereas each of the three upper steps are 0.57 meters high, each of the lower ones are 1.05 meter high. The lowest step seems a bit taller as part of the foundation is exposed. On the northwest side a narrow doorway, 1.39 m high without the sill and 0.78 m wide, leads through a small passage to a chamber measuring 3.17 meters long, 2.11 meters wide and 2.11 meters high. The gabled stone roof is hollow. Around the Tomb were a series of columns although the original structure which they supported is no longer present.

The design of Cyrus' Tomb is credited to Mesopotamian or Elamite ziggurats, but the inner chamber is usually attributed to Urartu Tombs of an earlier period. The main decoration on the Tomb is a rosette design over the door within the gable. In general, the art and architecture found at Pasargadae exemplified the Persian synthesis of various traditions, drawing on precedents from Elam , Babylon , Assyria, and ancient Egypt , with the addition of some Anatolian influences.

Though there is no firm evidence identifying the Tomb as that of Cyrus, Greek historians tell us that Alexander III of Macedon believed it was. When Alexander looted and destroyed Persepolis , he paid a visit to the Tomb of Cyrus. Arrian, writing in the second century of the common era, recorded that Alexander commanded Aristobulus, one of his warriors, to enter the monument. Inside he found a golden bed, a table set with drinking vessels, a gold coffin, some ornaments studded with precious stones and an inscription on the Tomb. No trace of any such inscription survived and there is considerable disagreement to the exact wording of the text was. It is believed that it originally read “O man! I am Cyrus the Great, who gave the Persians an empire and was the king of Asia. Grudge me not therefore this monument.”

Another proposed, yet unconfirmed, theory is that the body of Cyrus (and his wife) did not lay inside the main chamber, but rather in a narrow crawl space that was discovered in 1959 in between the main chamber and pediment above. While the low ceiling of the structure’s interior can be attributed to the placement of this hollowed space, however, there is little evidence to suggest that the space actually housed any bodies.

During the Islamic conquest of Iran , the Arab armies came upon the Tomb and planned to destroy it, considering it to be in violation of the tenets of Islam. The caretakers of the grave managed to convince the Arab command that the Tomb was not built to honor Cyrus, but instead housed the mother of King Solomon, thus sparing it from destruction. As a result, the inscription in the Tomb was replaced by a verse of the Quran, and the Tomb became known as the Tomb of the mother of Solomon.

Pasargadae was first archaeologically explored by the German archaeologist Ernst Herzfeld in 1905, and in one excavation season in 1928, together with his assistant Friedrich Krefter. Recent research on Pasargadae ’s structural engineering has shown that Achaemenid engineers built the city to withstand a severe earthquake, what would today be classified as 7.0 on the Richter magnitude scale. The foundations are classified as having a base isolation design, much like what is presently used in countries for the construction of facilities, such as nuclear power plants, that require insulation from the effects of seismic activity.

There has been growing concern regarding the Sivand Dam, named after the nearby town of Sivand . Its placement between both the ruins of Pasargadae and Persepolis has many archaeologists and Iranians worried that the dam will flood these UNESCO World Heritage sites, although scientists involved with the construction say this is not obvious because the sites sit above the planned waterline. Of the two sites, Pasargadae is the one considered the most threatened. Of broadly shared concern to archaeologists is the effect of the increase in humidity caused by the lake. It is generally agreed that humidity created by it will speed up the destruction of Pasargadae.






 













Thursday, February 2, 2012

Pigeon Towers


 
Like many other ancient artistic structures, pigeon towers have for the most part remained neglected and unknown to the average Iranian.  This comes in spite of their utilization for agricultural purposes and widespread distribution throughout the country spanning across the shores of Urumieh Lake in the Northwest, the deserts of Yazd , villages in Kashan and southern parts of Khorasan.  In Isfahan alone there are close to 3,000 pigeon towers while Meybod in Yazd province is home to one of the most exquisite pigeon towers in the country.

The architectural design of such towers in unique in a way that not only do they provide onlookers with an artistically crafted structure to view, but also attract pigeons and provide a safe environment for them to nest and live in.  Considering the many animals that prey on pigeons, such towers act as an impenetrable fortress that shelters the pigeons from predators.  The design of the towers and specifically the size of the entrances is such that birds such as hawks, owls or crows are unable to enter the towers which on average can house up to 25,000 pigeons.  The engineering of the structure has even accordingly taken into account the vibrations created as a result of the simultaneous rise and flight of this many pigeons.  To combat the effects of such vibrations, there is normally a floor towards the center of the tower and also arches connecting the interior and exterior cylindrical perimeters.
 
The interior consists of endless nesting balconies scattered uniformly along the straw and clay walls.  During the summers light breezes flow through the inside and maintain a cool temperature while during the winter the interior remains relatively warmer than the outside environment.
Aside from providing a sight seeing attraction to tourists and a home to pigeons, the towers also have economic benefits as they are used to produce and collect some of the most desirable natural fertilizer.  Prior to the popularization of chemical fertilizers, pigeon droppings from such towers were almost used exclusively. 

In Yazd the Meybod Pigeon Tower was constructed during the Qajar era.  It stands 3 stories tall and is home to thousands of pigeons.  The Tower is cylindrical with ridged stucco and brick placements decorating the walls not only adding to the beauty of the Tower, but also preventing snakes from sliding up the surface and gaining entry.  The thick adobe crust consists of six interior chambers with a tiny entrance on the west side and two flights of stairs.  The biggest drawback about the Tower is its location as a police station is directly across from it.  Given the limitations of photography at military locations, taking souvenir photos at the Meybod Pigeon Tower can at times be challenging.
 


Wednesday, January 11, 2012

Anzali Clock Tower


The Anzali Tower is a brick clock tower, formerly a lighthouse, located in Bandar Anzali, Gilan. It was constructed in the early 19th century during Nasereddin Shah’s reign (and by some accounts Fath Ali Shah's reign) by Khosro Khan Gorji, the Governor of Gilan, and is situated in Anzali Square and is known as the symbol of Anzali among foreign tourists and adventurers.

It is alleged that there was a total of 6 or 7 of such towers erected throughout the province with only this particular one still standing. It rises 28 meters high with a spiral stairway leading to its balcony at a height of 20 meters. The body of the Tower is peppered with tiny windows for light and ventilation. The Tower sits on a base spanning 50 square feet.

The Tower was constructed specifically to be used as a lighthouse by sailors for years and was thus visible from sea as well as land. In 1928 the Tower was renovated and clocks imported from Germany were added to each side of the structure. The clocks used to need to be wound up once a week and would mark the hour by chiming although in later years the chimes would eventually stop functioning and the clock would remain silent. In 1990 the original clocks were replaced with electric powered ones while the Tower itself was once again renovated and painted.

Prior to it being converted to a clock tower, a building was built in front of it obstructing its view. Following the request of Anzali citizens this situation was finally rectified with the demolition of the building in 2003. According to the Cultural Heritage experts in the Gilan province, restoration plans are to be carried out in the Tower and until then the municipality of Anzali Port will be responsible for the maintenance of the Tower.

In 1977 the Anazli Tower was registered as one of Gilan’s national heritage sites.

Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Sun Palace



The Sun Palace is located in Khorasan Razavi province and is from the time of Nader Shah Afshar. It is believed to have been home to the royal family although it seems unlikely anyone actually lived there prior to Nader Shah’s death. In the center of this palace there is a tower enhanced with fire architectural designs. The facade of this palace is cylindrical, built of black marble. The palace stands 20 meters high and contains 12 rooms decorated with paintings and ornamental works such as plaster moldings. This palace was built in 1740 and sits on top of a tomb from the Ilkhanid period. Its facade work was left unfinished due to Nader Shah’s sudden death. The main area of the structure is founded on an octagonal ground floor 34 meters wide and raised 4 steps high with a terrace constructed on each side.



The external facade is decorated with stones and images of vases, flowers, leaves and fruits in 3D form and have been painted in non-native style. Judging by the depictions of fruits such as bananas, pineapples and mangos on the walls, the structure is possibly the work of Indian artists. These paintings are left unfinished, because of the unclear state of affairs after the death of Nader Shah. The internal area is adorned with attractive paintings on plaster and a cornice on the dome, in gold, with the date of 1740 and a verse of Quran, which reinforces the notion of it being a tomb.



The site consists of the cellar, the floor level and the cylindrical tower supported by 66 columns. The cellar is the largest and contains 8 connecting rooms. Some argue that these rooms were home to Nader Shah’s rare treasures while others believe prisoners were kept there. The floor level consists of one large central open area and small smaller side rooms. Regardless of its original function, evidence suggests that during the early Qajar era it was used as a residential headquarters. In fact it can be seen that some of the Safavid artwork had been hastily plastered over with Qajar style art replacing them. The surrounding garden stretches 168 meters long and 122 meters wide and contains 8 pools with connecting streams and fountains.


For a lengthy stretch the Sun Palace had gone through unfortunate circumstances. In addition to gradual and natural deterioration, the surrounding gardens had not only been neglected but had also become the target of construction work. Today the structure has been renovated and the surrounding garden has been restored, although many of the older trees have been removed. It is currently being utilized as a museum of anthropology.

Saturday, November 19, 2011

Azarakhsh Fire Temple


The Azarakhsh Fire Temple is located at the foot of the mountains in Fars province approximately 5 kilometers southeast of Darab city. Some scholars believe that the Azarakhsh Fire Temple was initially a temple of Aryan Mehr worshipers and was converted to fire temple in the Sassanid era. In the lunar year of 652, during the time of Mohammad Hassan Mobarez, an alter was added to the Fire Temple, and from then onwards this structure was converted into a mosque. Today it is referred to as the Stone Mosque.



The Fire Temple has an amazing structure with cross shaped façade and a corridor around it. It spans 420 square meters and has been carved into the mountain stones. Part of the ceiling of this structure is open and there is a shallow pool under it. The structure is almost a square with its longest side spanning 20 meters long and the adjacent sides 18 meters each. Outside the Fire Temple a small room is situated, also carved into the mountain, and seems to have been for the guardian of the Fire Temple. Entering this room one descends three stairs and reaches a room 8 meters long.


Based on the remains it appears that its construction was initiated by carving the mountain downwards (similar to a well) starting around the area of the open end ceiling. Once deep enough, it was expanded horizontally in all four directions into its current shape. At the entrance is a small porch and surrounding the main structure is a portico. The entrance is sandwiched in between two columns that are carved in and connected to the wall housing the entrance. Most of the ceilings are curved similar to what can be seen in various Iranian structures. There are various inscriptions on the structure, one of them directly above the altar. Due to natural deterioration, most of the inscriptions are no longer legible.


Close to the Azarakhsh Fire Temple a stone mill with unique architecture was built inside the mountain. This mill has two huge stone furnaces which allow water entry to the mill.


The Azarakhsh Fire Temple is registered as natural heritage site number 229. In 2010 some renovations were being planned in order to preserve the Azarakhsh Fire Temple with some 200 million rials allocated to the project.

Friday, October 21, 2011

Siah Gav Twin Lakes


The Siah Gav Twin Lakes are located in Abdanan, Ilam Province and are one of the most prominent natural beauties of the area. The Lakes are 180 kilometers south of the city of Ilam and on the slopes of Kabir Kooh. These Lakes are a rare and unique natural phenomenon and a popular destination for adventurous hikers and sightseeers. They are surrounded by fields and high slopes and create a breath taking scene during the fall and spring.


The two Lakes are very similar and almost round in size with an approximate radius of 30 meters. The region’s climate promotes mostly late winter and spring tourism although in reality at any given the Lakes’ beauty attracts visitors. The two Lakes are connected via a canal spanning 8 meters wide, 4 meters deep and 70 meters long. The water in the Lakes is so clean and clear that one can easily see deep into them, spotting various and multi colored types of fish in either Lake. The water supply for the Lakes is provided by natural underground sources and springs although seasonal rivers also contribute to the Lakes’ volume and location. While the Lakes are estimated to go back a few thousand years, however, due to natural deterioration of its perimeter and subsequent gradual filling of the Lakes, their area has been decreasing over the years. The two Lakes have a nominal difference in elevation while the slightly bigger Lake is also somewhat clearer, to a large extent as a result of human littering.


Inside the Lakes are a variety of salts and sediments and the water itself has a sulfuric taste to it. During the seasons when water exits the Lakes, it flows and irrigates many local villages along its way. The surrounding slopes also contain many caves and oddly shaped rocks and boulders.


One of the mysteries regarding the Siah Gav Lakes are their names. One local story indicates that in the past a hippopotamus lived in one of the two Lakes and due to its dark color and the unfamiliarity of the locals with this species it was nicknamed the black cow. In 2010, the Siah Gav Twin Lakes were registered as a natural heritage list and as a result funds have been allocated for the construction of necessary surrounding infrastructures. Furthermore in 2011, with the help of environmental groups and the local Red Cross chapter, general cleaning of the Lakes was initiated.


Sunday, August 7, 2011

Dehloran Tar Spring


The Tar Spring of Dehloran is located in Ilam province in a natural protected area named Abgarm on the slopes of Siah Kooh, approximately 7 kilometers northeast of Dehloran adjacent to an abandoned building belonging to the National Oil Company. The road to the Tar Spring starts near Dehloran and leads to the Abgarm natural protected area where a sign guides visitors to the Spring via a narrow road. The last few hundred meters of the road is not suitable for vehicles and requires a short walk to reach to the Spring. An unpleasant odor emits from this Spring and visitors will notice the smell of tar as they approach. The area also contains mineral water springs, native trees, bat caves and also a special scarce type of bat.


The Spring’s diameter is about 9 meters and an has approximate depth of 50 centimeters. Hot water full of liquid tar particles flows out of it. There is a fence to protect animals from approaching and getting trapped in the tar. From this natural liquid spring, a mix of tar and water flows to the surface of the earth from underground. The water passes through stones that have alloy substance, and therefore gets mixed with tar. The mixture subsequently accumulates in a small pool and ultimately flows outside. The exit flow merges with water from other hot springs containing sulfur and leaves a very visible tar residue along its path.


According to myths told by the native people, this tar spring was the blood of a dragon that was killed by the Iranian hero, Esfandiar. Ancient Iranians made full use of this natural spring in naval and construction industries by applying the tar to render ships and roofs waterproof going about 3000 years back. The Roman historian, Procopius, in the 6th century spoke of the Mede’s oil and how Iranians would mix this oil with sulfur, set it on fire and launch its containers at their enemies. According to Procopius, this fiery concoction was made in such a way that it would float on water and thus could be used to destroy approaching enemy ships as well.


During the course of the World War I, British troops had intended to utilize this Spring and as a result had constructed railway tracks to its close proximity which still stands today. Currently the Tar Spring remains very much neglected and in spite of its obvious natural benefits and room for improvement in Dehloran and Ilam in general, no use is being made of it other than as a tourist attraction.


زمین اژدهافش دهان باز بود
سیه قیر جوشان، پر از راز بود
سیه قیر آکنده شد آن چنان
تو گویی که بر وی سرآمد زمان